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Thus, despite much effort, no gelling agent has yet been discovered that possesses all the properties and benefits of agar. Agar continues to be the best all-arounder: versatile, cheap, and established. And, if Gelidium agar should ever run out, and another colloid is not at hand, microbiologists could revert to culinary agar, which, although not as pure and transparent, offers a low-cost alternative to lab-grade agar.

By Will Standring and Alice Gledhill

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In the Sicilian town of Giarre overlooking Mount Etna, Andrea Passanisi, a tropical and citrus fruits producer, uses an unusual fertiliser on his 100-hectare (247-acre) stretch of land: volcano ash.