Far below us, at the base of the Front Range, I could see a group of tall red towers rising from a meadow of yellow bunchgrass. They looked ancient from this distance—like the cliff-dwellings of Mesa Verde—but also vaguely futuristic. Woody Allen, in his sci-fi spoof, “Sleeper,” used them as the setting for a sinister cloning institute. In fact, they housed the National Center for Atmospheric Research, or NCAR, one of a group of federally funded centers that were created, after the Second World War, to apply the most advanced research to the most urgent practical problems. It was the Los Alamos of turbulence. When I went there later that morning, I half expected the buildings to be dark. The government was shut down, and the National Science Foundation was facing huge budget cuts. But NCAR was still open, for now.
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